A paver installation looks simple on day one and reveals itself over the next two or three rainy seasons. Settling, waving, lifted edges, loose joints, weeds pushing through — those are almost always base problems, not paver problems. We install to ICPI (Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute) specs because Florida's sandy, water-mobile subgrade is unforgiving of shortcuts.
That means excavating to a true subgrade depth, a compacted aggregate base sized for the load (deeper for a driveway than a pedestrian patio), a screeded 1-inch bedding sand layer, pavers laid tight to pattern with correct bond, polymeric sand swept and activated in the joints, and edge restraint along every free edge. Skip any one and the install starts failing earlier than it should.
On the Treasure Coast we work mostly in concrete pavers (Belgard, Oldcastle), travertine, and cut natural stone. For driveways we favor pavers rated for vehicle loading. For pool decks we specify a non-slip finish and lighter colors that run cooler underfoot. For patios we have more flexibility on finish and pattern.
Drainage is baked into every install. Pavers are a permeable system by design — water moves through the joints — but only if the base and slope support it. On projects where water is a persistent problem, we scope drainage alongside the paver work so the hardscape isn't fighting the yard.